A Kiwi Experience

The return home was expected to be difficult, but in reality, it wasn’t nearly as bad as anticipated. A rather nonchalant feeling really, as if returning home from a 20 month adventure around the world was something people just do; no big deal. When I think back, it was pretty much the same feeling I felt when I departed.

If I had not returned to a home in such a state of disrepair, I might have actually enjoyed it. Alas, the next day I set about sorting it, first job - getting the water running. The jobs would keep me occupied all month as everything had to be done come Christmas as we were hosting the family this year.

It wasn’t just Dad putting me to work, Mum had a list too concerning the landscaping at her place in Havelock.

Back in the Manawatu, the weather was actually pretty good in the lead up to Christmas.

Cordyline australis (C. banksii) AKA the Cabbage Tree by our gateway. They‘re my new favourite tree at the moment.
Courtz (my twin) and I took a trip down memory lane visiting our old Primary School. Courtz is back in NZ for the summer too which has been great as I haven’t seen a lot of her over the last 9 years.

25.12.09 AD

Once Christmas was out of the way, I quickly prepared for my next spot of travelling; six weeks in the South Island. By the night of the 31^st Dec I was amongst friends in the Marlborough Sounds.

Marcus, our Savior, had done the bulk of organizing of the bach and boat for New Years. Even though he lives in Stockholm and most of his friends live in Christchurch. A miracle of logistics and organization.

500 was the card game of choice, killing untold hours.

K-man!

On the night of the 31^st there were some 32 of us, although it never felt like that many. Regardless, some of the best people you could ever hope to met.

After New Years in the sounds, Sam and I made our way to Wainui (a small place in Akaroa Harbour) to spend a week with his family at their holiday home. It has to be said again that Kevin, Christine and Emma were great (Sam, i give you a pass mark) and I greatly enjoyed the Ward’s hospitality.

It’s a beautiful and relaxed spot.

The weather was on our side, but somehow we never made much use of the deck.

Their house backs onto a reserve strip so native birds are common.

We got one day of fishing in before the boat sprung a leak. Sam and Kevin’s expression should give you a hint of how many fish we caught. Word is the only thing you catch in Akaroa Harbour is a cold.

Emma, Sam and I attempted to climb the highest part of the ridge that overlooks Wainui.

Eventually Sam and I found a route to the top; the Akaroa Heads are in the background.

With NY’s and my time in Wainui behind me the next leg of my S.I. trip began; a 3 week, 1,300km cycle tour from Christchurch to Te Anau via the Westcoast. I was rather anxious about it; however it was too late to back out. My first stop was at the Rouses (a friend’s parents) place near Geraldine. Here Trevor stands amongst some of their lavender they grow to produce oil used in Leonie’s Lavender products.

Again I reluctantly left the hospitality of some more great Canterbury folk to hit the road heading towards Arthurs Pass, taking the gravel road shortcut via Lake Coleridge. The weather and scenery through the mountains quickly cured my anxiety.
Major repairs en-route: both the pannier bag frames spontaneously fractured requiring a ‘temporary fix’ with tent pegs and ties that would thankfully last the remaining 1,100km.

Hokitika put on some magic weather where I spent a memorable stay with friends, especially the ‘fush and chups’ on the beach – Kiwi as! Cheers Sabbie!

I thought this was worth the effort of stopping and unpacking to get at the camera, an old railway bridge along the now disused coastal line south of Hoki.

At this point, I reached the point of the trip – seeing parts of the S.I. I had never before.

The Franz Joseph Glacier was one such sight. Depending how good your eyes are, you might be able to make out a line of people in the lower right of the photo.

The North has Pohotakawa, the Westcoast equivalent is Rata, beautiful Rata.

Straight from a 100% Pure New Zealand advert, the sunset from the Wetcoasts Gillespie’s Beach was stunning and relatively untouched.

The Westcoast didn’t live up to its reputation as I experienced great weather except for the day I rode from Haast up over the Haast Pass to Lake Wanaka. At least 80% of the traffic between Hoki and Wanaka were tourist vehicles; the Westcoast nature surely is stunning and the stream water unbelievably clear.

Lakeside DOC camp ground: $6 a night.

Rain threatens from the Hunter Valley at the northern end of Lake Hawea.

Roadside cones.

On account of the sand flies much of my time on the Westcoast was spend ‘indoors’ to avoid the little buggers, but as I approached Wanaka they became less of a problem.

Cromwell, Lake Dunstan and the Clutha river; scenery like this made the daily 70kms a lot easier.

Clyde Dam.

I had never seen Central Otago, so when I heard of the Railtrail I jumped at the idea of riding along the 150km old railway line (removed to make way for the cycle way) from Clyde around to Middlemarch taking in all the cliché Speights/Mainland Cheese scenes along the way.

A typical trail scene with the gentle grade of the trail.

The trail takes you through the odd tunnel…

…over the odd viaduct. I tented next to this one on the first night.

I really enjoyed riding through this big-sky farmland country, and even though I spoke with half a dozen friendly locals, it would have been better to share it all with a cycle partner.

I gave myself 3 days to get to Middlemarch and I was surprised how few people I came across. I’m told Feb-April (as the trees leaves change colour) is the busiest period with all the local accommodation and cafes doing a roaring trade; which is great for these isolated small communities.

From Middlemarch I took the bus back to Cromwell to save myself 3 days of backtracking, Queenstown was next on the list. I can see why it’s the tourist Mecca it is, the scenery certainly is spectacular.

Anything agricultural always takes my eye; especially in the Central South Island where the colours are strangely appealing.

18 days of riding after leaving Christchurch I pulled into Marius’ in Te Anau where I was greeted with a high five and a beer (a DB would have been more appropriate don’t you think?). My timing couldn’t have been better as Mario had the day off and it rained that next day.

The rain is not so good for biking, but it was ideal for the next days events – kayaking in Milford Sound where Marius is a kayak guide for tourists.

The heavy rain had the effect of making the steep granite walls of the fiords weep with a thousand waterfalls which really left me in awe. I had heard that Fiordland was a must-see, but I never imagined it could have been that spectacular.

To top off the perfect Milford experience. The weather cleared up in the afternoon to revel the surrounding peaks.

Mario would finally get on the FB FD board in front of New Zealand’s quintessential landmark.

I haven’t seen everything, but I’m certain that Fiordland is one of the top National Parks in the world; on a nice day it’s near impossible to beat.

Eglinton Valley.

No rest for the wicked, the next morning at 0545 we were up heading out on another of Mario’s Kayaking trips, this time though it was a 2 day trip to Doubtful Sound. We would have to cross Lake Manapouri to West Arm and cross over to Deep Cove (the outlet of the Manapouri hydro-electric power station).

I was lucky with the weather the week I was down, parts of Fiordland get over 5,000mm of rain a year (to put that perspective Auckland gets about 1,800mm).

It was a small group Marius was guiding. Here we sit out in the breeze to avoid the sand flies around our tents in the bush.

However, as soon as the wind dies down the ravenous blood-sucking bar#tards swarm. Your only defense is to cover yourself. The only (but a significant) detraction from what would otherwise be a slice of paradise.

The Southern Cross and moonlit foreground.

Come morning it looked like another perfect day in the making.

The native Kea.

More Rata.

Another University friend Rouse joined us later in the week, so while he paddled around with Mario and that days group I hiked to Lake Marian - truly a slice a paradise as there were no sand flies!!!

Again, the clarity of the waterways impressed and enticed.

Fiordland National Park is covered with U-shaped glacial valleys; a relic of the past ice age.

A swing rope at a DOC roadside camp site: too perfect.

Even though you can see the stony bottom, it’s surprisingly deep on account of its clarity.

Is there are pattern forming here (pristine weather and stunning scenery)?

I got a ride back north to Christchurch with Rouse, but not before stopping off at Lake Hawea for another dip.

The McKenzie basin near Twizel, areas like this are currently under threat from development into factory style dairy farms. The stark beauty of its desolation has a high value to society if you ask me.

Fields of gold; another favourite of mine.

A couple nights at the Rouses and another couple in Christchurch catching up with old friends and I was ready to fly back to the North Island, but not before playing numerous games of ‘fetch’ with friends dogs; almost makes one want to settle down and get one of your own!

Back home now in the Manawatu where I have a few projects here and in Havelock which will take me a few months to complete before I hopefully head back overseas somewhere to work again. “Well, about time” I hear some of you say…